Folegandros
I always liked the name "Folegandros". It just sounded different, a bit unique. Most people agreed it sounded ridiculous, but I didn't. I thought it was an awesome name. Actually, I remember jokingly telling my mom that when I had a kid, I'd name it Folegandros or if it was a girl, Folegandra. She really thought I was being serious and freaked out (which might have to do with my rather serious expression at that moment), so I had to stop the joke right away.
There are two explanations as to how Folegandros took its name. The "romantic" one says that Folegandros was a son of king Minos of Crete and his legacy can be seen in the labyrinthe paths across the island. The other version says that Folegandros is just the Phoenician word for "rocky".
So, which one's right? Who knows? Who cares? You can choose the one that suits you or you can let it be. I like both versions. That's besides the point any-way. So, what's the point? Hm. Well, Folegandros is a lovely island, I guess. I visited Folegandros about 2 years ago, with my wife and my friend Hope and her husband, Constantine. Our son was 3 at the time and we wanted to visit a place were we could relax, maybe blow off some steam and let go of our stress. So, we chose Folegandros. See, Folegandros hasn't been overwhelmed by tourism so it's remained original and it's popular with visitors looking for a quieter place
Folegandros Hotels
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What does Folegandros look like?
Folegandros is a tiny island; imagine, it's only populated by 500 people. Its capital is a magnificently sited medieval town with an inner kastro, high above the sea to avoid pirates. It's a maze of crazy-paved alleys and two-storey cube houses with brightly painted wooden balconies. Folegandros is bleak, arid, a place of wild beauty. It's dry and infer-tile, with crystalline rocks and it's full of pretty little churches, scattered all over it.
Are there any places I should not miss in Folegandros?
First of all, there's the Ecology and Folk Museum. Housed in an old farm with a fine view over Hora and Sikinos, this beautiful museum includes a farm house with a stable, well, oven, vineyard and orchard, as well as a house with objects of every day use. Essentially, it displays farming implements and reconstructions of traditional peasant life.
Then there's the Church of Koimisis tis Theotokou (Assumption of the Virgin Mary). This church was built by an islander after he was miraculously saved by a silver icon on which he floated back to Folegandros after the medieval pirates who had kidnapped him and stolen it drowned in a storm. You'll proba-bly notive a few ancient remains at the entrance of the church: they possibly come from the ancient acropolis, Paleokastro.
Finally, there's Hryssospilia, the Golden Cave that gapes over the sea. It's rich with stalagmites and stalactites (from which it took its name) and excava-tions have shown it was a place of refuge in the Middle Ages. Unfortunately, I'ts only accessible to good climbers, so if you're not one, forget all that I said (like I had to do when I was informed about it).
What about the archaeological and historical sites of Folegandros?
The only place that comes to mind is the castle, unfortunately. Kastro was built during the 13th century (1204, if I'm not mistaken) above the cliff by Marco Sanudo. It's a beautiful site that forms a triangle against the cliff of which Plateia Pounda is the base and the Church of Panagia Pantanassa the tip.
Are there any good beaches in Folegandros?
Folegandros is perhaps the most unspoiled island of the Cyclades and that applies for its beaches as well. Most of them have spectacular views and stunning landscapes.
Angali Beach is one of the most popular beaches in Folegandros. It's sandy, long with clear waters and it offers sea sports, sun beds and umbrellas. Mind that the way back can get tiring since it's a steep and sweaty hike back up.
Agios Georgios is another lovely beach. It's sandy and pebbled and it's shaded by tamarisks. It's not organised so make sure you bring food and water. Also, have tough footwear cause the walk there can be rather demanding.
Karavostasi is ideal for children. The waters are shallow, clear and, most of the time, calm. The beach is pebbled but the sea bottom is sandy. Ambeli is a small beach with pebbles and some rocky spots, quite quiet most of the time. As for Ligaria, it's a ravishing beach near Ano Meria, pebbled and small.
Where should I eat in Folegandros?
There are several places where you can have a decent meal in Folegandros. One bright example is Punta, in a walled garden area in Punta Square. The food is simply excellent, with tasty break-fasts and delicious evening meals (dishes like rabbit stew, lamb and vegetari-an dishes).
Apanemo is another great place. It's a wine bar but the food it serves is very delicious. Definitely try the Cretan specialty, dakos, served with a rusk base and herb pie and risotto. The wines of course are great as well.
Also don't miss Folegandros, a lovely restaurant that serves fish, local meze-des and many other dishes. It's a real institution. Then, there are places like Kritikos, the barbecue specialist, Melissa and Piatsa Restaurant that serve traditional Greek dishes, Pizza Pasta that obviously serves pizzas (and pa-stas) and Nicolas with a wide range of dishes, including grills and pastas.
In the graphic Chora of Folegandros you will meet a special small tavern Zefiros with hot familial environment, home made food with Cycladitian and political cooker, rich ouzo titbits with fish and marine titbits and meat titbits, all in rich dishes.
What about Folegandros' nightlife?
As I said, Folegandros is mostly a quiet is-land and most of its visitors are there because they want seclusion, so it's not exactly big on the way of nightlife. However, there are a couple of places you could visit. Kelari, for example, is a cozy little wine bar that plays Greek music and has a great selection of Greek wines. Carajo plays latin and jazz and it's ideal for a late-night drink. Greco Café-Bar offers a great mix of sounds, per-haps the place with the best music on Folegandros. Also, there's Avli Club that plays rock, disco, latin and Greek late into the night.
At the edge of Chora in Folegandros... is Patitiri.
Having gone through many changes, it has managed to be everyone's best choice in local nightlife entertainment during the last 20 years.
How do I get to Folegandros?
There are ferry connections with Piraeus 4-5 times per week throughout the year. The trip lasts about 9 hours. Throughout the year and especially in the summer, Folegandros is linked by ferries and speedboats to most of the Cycladic islands.
